RICHARD DAWKINS

THE CHEVIOT TO KIRK YETHOLM

Thursday 20/05/2010. Well I can't quite believe it, today I will be finishing my traverse of The Pennine Way! Yes I'm actually going to do it and it's a strange feeling for some reason! My regular time-keeping holds out and I'm making my way up Cairn Hill's rather boggy track by 7am. Unfortunately for me the clag is down, so this my final day's walking is the only day on which I have not set off in perfect conditions, but still nothing can interfere with my jovial self-assurance and I'm savouring the feeling of being a PW completer, I know, I know and I am conscious that chickens can be counted too soon. With the weather conditions I neither take the optional extension to top-out on the summit of The Cheviot or when it comes the official high-level finish over Steer Rig and White Law taking the easier "bad wether" option of the low route down to Halterburn and into Kirk Yetholm. Obviously I'm now keen to finish and calculate that my final day's walking will be of the order of eight or nine miles. However when I get down to Halterburn - and the track is a beautiful end to the walk the sun has burned off the cloud and mist and it's another wonderful early summer day, gosh I am lucky! I'm also a bit of a sight and guess I must be a bit smelly - you can never tell yourself can you? so I stop by the side of the Witchcleuch Burn and strip down to dry off in the hot morning sun and don a clean T shirt after a splash of water to freshen up, golly I do need a shave too. Then I give my boots a clean and head down onto the farm track that leads past the junction with St. Cuthbert's Way and into Kirk Yetholm. Done it laddie. Into the bar at the Border Hotel where I was presented with a certificate showing my time of Nine Days Seventeen Hours and Forty Minutes, quite fast. I had a few drinks to celebrate and a customer took me out of his way to help me get a bus to Berwick. But with over an hour to wait for it I hitched a lift, my luck continued I got to Berwick, to Newcastle, to Middlesbrough and home to Ingleby Barwick, Well chuffed too.

PADDON HILL TO THE CHEVIOT

Wednesday 19/5/2010. PHOTO: The Street, Cheviot Drove Road.
Despite my proximity to the minor road (not a single vehicle passed by overnight, though I do sleep soundly) there is a feeling of being quite alone in this vast unpopulated area making my morning ascent over Paddon Hill to drop into Redesdale valley on the eastern fringe of the mighty Keilder Forest. Several miles of forest track walking -two separate sightings of lovley Roe Deer - leads to the River Rede then crossed to reach two little hamlets, contenders for the distinction of having the longest place names in England, to wit: "Blakehopeburnhaugh" & "Cottonshopeburnfoot" (surely the locals will abbreviate), from here the west bank of the river is followed into Byrness. I had an interesting encounter with a sleeping Adder in the forest, I thought it was dead and tapped it with my foot which sent it scurrying off before I could get my camera out, bugger, you couldn't have asked for a better picture opportunigy! But soon my little heart was skipping a beat faster on reaching the roadside garage with it's cafe a hundred yards or so from the point where the Way meets the A696 at the hamlet of Byrness, but alas I was in for a swift disappointment as this business has also closed. A bit of a blow as I was relying on this stop to get the food I will need to finish the walk. From here there is only 28 miles to Kirk Yetholm, but the crossing of the Cheviot Hills must be made with all requirements on your back as there are no services at all between Byrness and the finishing line in Kirk Yetholm and Byrness is so small it hardly merits the title of even a hamlet, so I was not a happy bunny. There is a B&B up a hill on the opposite side of the road - it was previously Byrness's advertised hotel - and I walked up to see if I could get some food there, my luck was in as the owners are well aware of the needs of PW walkers and indeed are planning to open a cafe on their premises. This was a great relief to me as I was invited in to enjoy a cup of tea, bacon sandwich and took away with me apples and biscuits which with my own remainding provender should see me through to the bitter end! (Wonderful value for under a fiver, Pen-y-Ghent cafe please note) Phew that was a close thing. The message is that backpackers should make essential purchases at Bellingham. From Byrness the route heads up into the woods where I quickly managed to lose sight of any PW signing but by keeping in a proper northerly direction, but not without that element of little that accompanies the knowledge of being off-route, particularly as the Forestry Commission are at work so raising fears of possible confrontation. I eventuall got it sorted out by passing the bothy called "Spithope", essentially I have taken a low-level route, only a few hundred yards beneath the skyline and the proper path, but I could see no way up! but after the bothy soon got back on the proper Way. Soon I was passing the site of the roman fort at Chew Green and further north the handy little mountain refuge hut at the foot of Lamb Hill, where the route swings to the north-east for the next few miles. I can now smell the finishing line and keep a good pace but I am getting increasing pain from my right shin, however there is no turning back from here I am now fully committed to the route and even if the pain gets much worse I have no option but to complete the walk! At least it keeps things simple. It's another fine walking day and I'm making good progress despite my leg and have to admit I'm now looking forward to the finish, my timing is working out just perfect too, if I get as many miles in as possible before my final PW camp tonight I can reduce my last days walking to sub-ten miles which will hopefully allow me to get home by public transport avoiding the need for another overnight's camp. This is a beautiful lonely section with vast empty miles and gentle rolling hills in all directions. The only people I met on the crossing were a couple of Pennine Wayfarers (who offerred and shared a dram with me), wonderful lads wild-camping just north of Windy Gyle the only living souls seen before reaching the outskirts of Kirk Yetholm. I kept walking till 8.30pm by which time I had passed north of the King's Seat cairn and pitched in the heather - hard to pitch in good to sleep on - beneath the west facing slope of Cairn Hill the outlier of mighty Cheviot. Bedded down a happy man, I will be completing The Pennine Way tomorrow!

HADRIAN'S WALL TO PADDON HILL

Tuesday 18th. May 2010. PHOTO: Hot Bank Farm at Crag Lough.
Another incredible bright and hey-hi-ho summer's morning sees me leaving my seventh camp on The Pennine Way along Hadrian's Wall in goodly spirits having slept soundly following a long 32 mile day yesterday. I have six or seven miles to go along that constant up-and-down section of the Wall which is mildly disconcerting as steady striding is constantly interrupted - how much harder on the men who built the wall I wonder? On arriving at Rapishaw Gap just this side of Housesteads Fort the only person met along the Wall was a solitary local dog-walker out enjoying this bright new day, we dallied for a chat near the summit trig point on the highest point on the Wall - Winshiels Crag at 1132' above sea level. It was a great treat to see several Whinchats hereabouts. The early morning light is so good I took quite a few pictures despite having covered this section phtographically on my double-traverse of the Wall a couple of years ago. A quickish march brings me to Rapishaw Gap where the Wall is left in favour of the lowland moors leading into the eastern extremity of the formidable man-planted woodlands of Wark Forest. I had an unusual encounter on an open path in a warm sunny clearing through the woods, stepping over an Adder asleep on the track. It was so still I thought it was dead and gently tapped it with my foot, a procedure that failed to meet with complete viperous approval! Off it went at a rare lick, instantly disappearing in the long grass, my closest encounter yet with an Adder but I should have got a picture before standing on the poor thing. On leaving the forest- at least the going has been quite fast on the trails - I dropped down to cross first the Wark Burns then Hauxty Burn and on into the town of Bellingham. My first port of call in Bellingham (pronounced BellingJAM), was to the local chemist, I have hurt the bottom part of the shin in my right leg, I think I have been tying my boot lace too tight, and although I have loosed off the lace, the pain is increasing, I bought some "ice" gel. Then it was into the bakers shop next door, Yummy, down the lane to a public tap - every town should have at least one of these for wayfarers who are always on the look-out for water and then off steeply up the road for a mile or so to regain the high ground above the valley. A few easy miles and I'm reaching my evening knackered stage and begin to keep an eye out for a place to pitch up for the night and in due course after passing Hareshaw House and crossing the minor road then traversing over Rough Shaw I found my spot by the next minor road about a mile below the summit of Paddon Hill. Another good day and I have walked at least 60 miles in the last 48 hours and I'm beginning to think that I might actually finish the walk! It's a fact that less than half of all starting walkers make it from Edale to Kirk Yetholme and that has been on my mind, not only that but the Pennine Way is about 70 miles longer than my previous record distance for a continuous walk, so it represents quite an increase on what I know I can do! Slept very well, as might be imagined>

GARRIGILL TO HADRIANS' WALL

Monday 17th. May 2010. PHOTO: Hadrian's Wall.
I'm up and away about 7am. having settled into a sleeping routine that allows me to get up and off quite early, my intention is to arrive in Garrigill just as the shops open. I walked quickly on the downhill path and got into the village about 8.30am and by happy co-incidence met the post-office owner while I was dumping yesterdays litter in a bin, asked when the shops opened and he said not till nine "but I'll open up for you if you want" such is the power of private enterprise! Thank you kind sir.. From Garrigill it's an enjoyable five miles walk to Alston along the banks of the South Tyne and I arrived in Alston mid-morning. I detoured into the town to stock up on food etc., which added about 45 minutes to my time then it was back downhill to follow the South Tyne river just a little west of north, through the unromantically named old mining village of Slaggyford onto the abandoned bed of the South Tynsdale Railway and on to the village of Greenhead some 18 miles north of Alston. I arrived after a slightly confusing crossing of the golf-course immediately north of the A69 and made for the pub and had my first beer for over a week! I needed to beg water and with the pub very full I felt compelled to buy a pint! I have a reason to celebrate too as I get here exactly a week after leaving Edale and the official tally of miles is 199, so with my several tours I drink my beer toasting having walked over 200 miles in a week. I'm sure that will be a new one week distance record for me. Then it was off passing the track to Thirlwall Castle and then with a bit of a pull too, it's always the same tiring drag with hills encoutered at the fag-end of the day.. up along Cockmount Hill with a dramtic change of direction from north to east as the next section of the Way crosses wonderful Hadrian's Wall to Housesteads. Soon I'm at the car-park at Cawfields and have the wall all to myself in the warm evening light spilling in from a setting sun in the west making for good photograhy. Time to find somewhere to camp but as there are farms around and conscious of how unwelcome wild camping is in these parts - fears are that tentpoles and pegs may cause damage to as yet undiscovered archeology, something I am happy to recognise - so I elect to have my first proper night out under the stars this year and kip in my bivi-sac. righ by the wall and I'm in a small way sorry to say that I was not in the least worried by the ghosts of the Roman Legionairs. A great night and in a great spot too, as can be seen in my picture.

HIGH FORCE TO GARRIGILL

Sunday 16th.May 2010. PHOTO: Greg's Hut.
Leaving "Juniper Camp" I have by my caluclations now completed 146 miles of the walk. The next dozen or so miles I know quite well and expect to make fast progress to Dufton and so it turns out. Once I have passed and photographed High Force (again), it's a short climb up Cronkley Hill and down to cross the Maize Beck and on to the waterfall of Cauldron Snout and the dam wall at Cow Green Reservoir. Reaching the dam wall involves several miles of wonderful sprung-turf walking by the riverside passing the whitewashed farmsteads of the Raby Estate. But alas the Way abandons this five star terrain for a couple of miles of boulder-hopping to reach the bottom of Cauldron Snout's waterfall, the difference in going is sudden, dramatic and the turf is soon missed! At the top of the Snout I met and chatted to a man from Australia who was also walking the Way but was making for Langdon Green to meet up and then walk with his friends, all fellow Australians. Most of the walkers doing the Way seem to be from overseas so the Way is contributing to our foreign exchange reserves, or at least the walkers I am meeting are. The next notable landmark is the wonderful Whin Sill glaciated valley at High Cup Nick, I had my photo taken here I'm meeting more folks on the Way than on any earlier day! Down into Dufton and a bit of a blow to learn that the shop in the town is no longer open! dratt.. I went into the pub preparing to have to fork out extortionately for sandwiches etc but had great good luck to meet a fellow (lady) walker, who on learning of my predicament gave me her surplus food, thank you ma'am! Next on the walk is a big pull up onto the ridge leading to The Dun Fells with the Radar Station atop, on the climb up I even managed to get some snow on my boots! Making my way to Cross Fell was hard going a) I was tiring by this time in the early evening and b) a stiff and very cold wind did nothing to help. But I was making good distance and soon found myself dropping down to Gregs Hut the old mining cottage now serving in the office of a bothy. No one was resident, I had a quick look at the log-book and was gratified to see that my immediate predecessor (walking the Way and signing the book) started his entry "Day 12 on the Pennine Way", I was tempted to start mine with "Day six on the Pennine Way- so there!" but modesty forbade me! I considered spending the night here and it would have been a pleasant doss but the time was just too early, I can easily get another hour or two on my legs and get closer to Garrigill, hard tonight, but I'll be glad on the morrow. It's all downhill but a bit uncomfortable underfoot due to the rather stony track, but I endured and found a wonderful spot to camp about three miles above Garrigill in the small bay of an old quarry near some abandoned mineworkings. A great little spot and the Golden Plovers kept me company and I slept a happy man.

THWAITE TO HIGH FORCE ON THE TEES

Saturday 15th. May 2010. PHOTO: Racock Moor to Baldersdale.
The beautiful weather continues and all of today is blessed with continuous warm sunshine and with good tramping underfoot I pace the miles with relish. Thwaite was still asleep as I walked through, in passing I stopped to photograph the Cherry Kearton Hotel (tea room closed early am. alas), named after the famous naturalist and photographer who lived here before elevation to fame and fortune. Out of Thwaite leads to a pleasant climb over the hill called Kidson then easily downhill to the attractive hamlet of Keld - I last passed through Keld on my walk along Wainwright's Coast to Coast route during the first week of August 2008. The next stage from to Middleton-in-Teesdale is a long one at 22 miles and takes a direct line north over the Stonedale Moor to the famous Tan Hill Inn. I stopped for a cup of tea and found the service appalling; I'll need to be in some extremity to be tempted across their door again. Leaving the pub the good news is that the Sleightholm Moss crossing was a bouncy romp given how dryed out it was and this is possibly the worst reputed bog on the entire Way. Next the busy A66 is crossed at God's Bridge, no need to use the bridge however as the river Greta has almost disappeared underground! Then a gentle climb over Ravock Castle to descend to the reservoirs at Baldersdale and the erstwhile home of Hannah Hauxwell at Birk Hatt Farm - took a picture for my BritLit Flickr group- and uphill to a rest by Hannah's Meadow (the meadow and the farm are now in the possession of the Durham Wildlife Trust). Here in mid afternoon, I took a short break in the sun relishing the fact that I have now walked 134 miles since leaving Edale last Monday evening so I have now accomplished half of the Pennine Way - and I'm just inside the time required for a sub-ten day completion! But the road beckons and so off north once more, I miss the Bowes Loop and will restock on food and water in Middleton about two hours walk away. Arriving about teatime I made for the local fish and chip shop and had a smashing fish-supper alfresco on the pavement tables then after stocking up on essential comestibles made my way along the west bank of the River Tees - From here to Dufton I will be travelling in the opposite direction taken when I last walked this stretch on TheTeesdale Way done in early June 2007. After passing Low Force I'm ready to turn in at the next possible campsite and soon wander off the path to camp in the juniper woods a couple of hundred yards below the High Force waterfalls, quite out of site and a good soft pitch about four miles or so from Middleton-in-teesdale. So get set up in the evening sun, put the kettle on and this is the life for a man like me!