PADDON HILL TO THE CHEVIOT

Wednesday 19/5/2010. PHOTO: The Street, Cheviot Drove Road.
Despite my proximity to the minor road (not a single vehicle passed by overnight, though I do sleep soundly) there is a feeling of being quite alone in this vast unpopulated area making my morning ascent over Paddon Hill to drop into Redesdale valley on the eastern fringe of the mighty Keilder Forest. Several miles of forest track walking -two separate sightings of lovley Roe Deer - leads to the River Rede then crossed to reach two little hamlets, contenders for the distinction of having the longest place names in England, to wit: "Blakehopeburnhaugh" & "Cottonshopeburnfoot" (surely the locals will abbreviate), from here the west bank of the river is followed into Byrness. I had an interesting encounter with a sleeping Adder in the forest, I thought it was dead and tapped it with my foot which sent it scurrying off before I could get my camera out, bugger, you couldn't have asked for a better picture opportunigy! But soon my little heart was skipping a beat faster on reaching the roadside garage with it's cafe a hundred yards or so from the point where the Way meets the A696 at the hamlet of Byrness, but alas I was in for a swift disappointment as this business has also closed. A bit of a blow as I was relying on this stop to get the food I will need to finish the walk. From here there is only 28 miles to Kirk Yetholm, but the crossing of the Cheviot Hills must be made with all requirements on your back as there are no services at all between Byrness and the finishing line in Kirk Yetholm and Byrness is so small it hardly merits the title of even a hamlet, so I was not a happy bunny. There is a B&B up a hill on the opposite side of the road - it was previously Byrness's advertised hotel - and I walked up to see if I could get some food there, my luck was in as the owners are well aware of the needs of PW walkers and indeed are planning to open a cafe on their premises. This was a great relief to me as I was invited in to enjoy a cup of tea, bacon sandwich and took away with me apples and biscuits which with my own remainding provender should see me through to the bitter end! (Wonderful value for under a fiver, Pen-y-Ghent cafe please note) Phew that was a close thing. The message is that backpackers should make essential purchases at Bellingham. From Byrness the route heads up into the woods where I quickly managed to lose sight of any PW signing but by keeping in a proper northerly direction, but not without that element of little that accompanies the knowledge of being off-route, particularly as the Forestry Commission are at work so raising fears of possible confrontation. I eventuall got it sorted out by passing the bothy called "Spithope", essentially I have taken a low-level route, only a few hundred yards beneath the skyline and the proper path, but I could see no way up! but after the bothy soon got back on the proper Way. Soon I was passing the site of the roman fort at Chew Green and further north the handy little mountain refuge hut at the foot of Lamb Hill, where the route swings to the north-east for the next few miles. I can now smell the finishing line and keep a good pace but I am getting increasing pain from my right shin, however there is no turning back from here I am now fully committed to the route and even if the pain gets much worse I have no option but to complete the walk! At least it keeps things simple. It's another fine walking day and I'm making good progress despite my leg and have to admit I'm now looking forward to the finish, my timing is working out just perfect too, if I get as many miles in as possible before my final PW camp tonight I can reduce my last days walking to sub-ten miles which will hopefully allow me to get home by public transport avoiding the need for another overnight's camp. This is a beautiful lonely section with vast empty miles and gentle rolling hills in all directions. The only people I met on the crossing were a couple of Pennine Wayfarers (who offerred and shared a dram with me), wonderful lads wild-camping just north of Windy Gyle the only living souls seen before reaching the outskirts of Kirk Yetholm. I kept walking till 8.30pm by which time I had passed north of the King's Seat cairn and pitched in the heather - hard to pitch in good to sleep on - beneath the west facing slope of Cairn Hill the outlier of mighty Cheviot. Bedded down a happy man, I will be completing The Pennine Way tomorrow!