ACROSS RANNOCH MOOR WEST HIGHLAND WAY

Friday 19/03/2010. Long days make for a good night's sleep so notwithstanding my position close to the railway at Bridge of Orchy, the trains run unexpectedly late, with the lights of the station burning away all night, I slept soundly through the wind and rain, I was lucky to be able to pitch in a brief rainless spell and my good fortune returned in the morning and I was able to pack up in the dry - the tent went into it's bag very wet, adding to the weight to be humped around.
Not long after packing up the rain came back and stayed with me at varying degrees of ferocity for the rest of the day, this was a shame as it restricted my photography in what is surely among the most beautiful miles of the route. Once clear of Bridge of Orchy (good camping by the bridge with pub to hand too) the route climbs and winds steeply uphill corkscrewing it's way over the northern slopes of Mam Carrsigh to descend with Loch Tulla to the north-east to reach Inveroran and it's hotel, early to mid-morning as I passed and no sign of life, from here a walk round the quiet road to Forest Lodge and the wonderful military road over Rannoch Moor with all those wonderful Munro's off on my left hand side (north-west) guarding Glencoe and forcing the traveller down to cross the A82 at it's access to the ski runs on Meall a' Bhuiridh and on to the pleasures of Kingshouse Hotel. It was pouring down as I arrived at the hostelry, the climbers bar was closed so I had to brave the rigours of the lounge bar to get my first cup of decent coffee for ages. As I left the local mountain rescue team out training their dogs and handlers were pouring into the hotel in search of a respite from the weather. None for me though, so after about a mile or so along the minor road behind the hotel I struck uphill once more to reach the access of The Devil's Staircase, opposite the Majesty that is Buachaille Etive Mor, with the bewitching positioned and whitewashed Scottish Mountaineering Club hut "Lagangarbh" at it's base. It is over 30 years since I first stayed in this legendary climbing hut. It's about six miles over to Kinlochleven and a bit of a pain on the final couple of downhill miles as my downhill muscles are underused on this walk and prone to complain when pressed to service. But I made it OK, only to start on my final climb of the day (and of the walk virtually too) along the southern bank of the Mamore's, once the initial climb was over the going got much faster and I churned up the miles to make as much ground as possible before darkness arrived, not only that but camping spots were rather scarce so I had reason to march. But in due course I came to the flatter ground as I headed west and camped in a lovely spot by the ruins of Larigmor Cottage, (see picture) with about ten miles to complete in the morning. Late afternoon and the rain gave up it near 48 hour barrage and I camped a happy man and slept the sleep of the just. Tomorrow I'll be in Fort William.