RICHARD DAWKINS

THE CHEVIOT TO KIRK YETHOLM

Thursday 20/05/2010. Well I can't quite believe it, today I will be finishing my traverse of The Pennine Way! Yes I'm actually going to do it and it's a strange feeling for some reason! My regular time-keeping holds out and I'm making my way up Cairn Hill's rather boggy track by 7am. Unfortunately for me the clag is down, so this my final day's walking is the only day on which I have not set off in perfect conditions, but still nothing can interfere with my jovial self-assurance and I'm savouring the feeling of being a PW completer, I know, I know and I am conscious that chickens can be counted too soon. With the weather conditions I neither take the optional extension to top-out on the summit of The Cheviot or when it comes the official high-level finish over Steer Rig and White Law taking the easier "bad wether" option of the low route down to Halterburn and into Kirk Yetholm. Obviously I'm now keen to finish and calculate that my final day's walking will be of the order of eight or nine miles. However when I get down to Halterburn - and the track is a beautiful end to the walk the sun has burned off the cloud and mist and it's another wonderful early summer day, gosh I am lucky! I'm also a bit of a sight and guess I must be a bit smelly - you can never tell yourself can you? so I stop by the side of the Witchcleuch Burn and strip down to dry off in the hot morning sun and don a clean T shirt after a splash of water to freshen up, golly I do need a shave too. Then I give my boots a clean and head down onto the farm track that leads past the junction with St. Cuthbert's Way and into Kirk Yetholm. Done it laddie. Into the bar at the Border Hotel where I was presented with a certificate showing my time of Nine Days Seventeen Hours and Forty Minutes, quite fast. I had a few drinks to celebrate and a customer took me out of his way to help me get a bus to Berwick. But with over an hour to wait for it I hitched a lift, my luck continued I got to Berwick, to Newcastle, to Middlesbrough and home to Ingleby Barwick, Well chuffed too.

PADDON HILL TO THE CHEVIOT

Wednesday 19/5/2010. PHOTO: The Street, Cheviot Drove Road.
Despite my proximity to the minor road (not a single vehicle passed by overnight, though I do sleep soundly) there is a feeling of being quite alone in this vast unpopulated area making my morning ascent over Paddon Hill to drop into Redesdale valley on the eastern fringe of the mighty Keilder Forest. Several miles of forest track walking -two separate sightings of lovley Roe Deer - leads to the River Rede then crossed to reach two little hamlets, contenders for the distinction of having the longest place names in England, to wit: "Blakehopeburnhaugh" & "Cottonshopeburnfoot" (surely the locals will abbreviate), from here the west bank of the river is followed into Byrness. I had an interesting encounter with a sleeping Adder in the forest, I thought it was dead and tapped it with my foot which sent it scurrying off before I could get my camera out, bugger, you couldn't have asked for a better picture opportunigy! But soon my little heart was skipping a beat faster on reaching the roadside garage with it's cafe a hundred yards or so from the point where the Way meets the A696 at the hamlet of Byrness, but alas I was in for a swift disappointment as this business has also closed. A bit of a blow as I was relying on this stop to get the food I will need to finish the walk. From here there is only 28 miles to Kirk Yetholm, but the crossing of the Cheviot Hills must be made with all requirements on your back as there are no services at all between Byrness and the finishing line in Kirk Yetholm and Byrness is so small it hardly merits the title of even a hamlet, so I was not a happy bunny. There is a B&B up a hill on the opposite side of the road - it was previously Byrness's advertised hotel - and I walked up to see if I could get some food there, my luck was in as the owners are well aware of the needs of PW walkers and indeed are planning to open a cafe on their premises. This was a great relief to me as I was invited in to enjoy a cup of tea, bacon sandwich and took away with me apples and biscuits which with my own remainding provender should see me through to the bitter end! (Wonderful value for under a fiver, Pen-y-Ghent cafe please note) Phew that was a close thing. The message is that backpackers should make essential purchases at Bellingham. From Byrness the route heads up into the woods where I quickly managed to lose sight of any PW signing but by keeping in a proper northerly direction, but not without that element of little that accompanies the knowledge of being off-route, particularly as the Forestry Commission are at work so raising fears of possible confrontation. I eventuall got it sorted out by passing the bothy called "Spithope", essentially I have taken a low-level route, only a few hundred yards beneath the skyline and the proper path, but I could see no way up! but after the bothy soon got back on the proper Way. Soon I was passing the site of the roman fort at Chew Green and further north the handy little mountain refuge hut at the foot of Lamb Hill, where the route swings to the north-east for the next few miles. I can now smell the finishing line and keep a good pace but I am getting increasing pain from my right shin, however there is no turning back from here I am now fully committed to the route and even if the pain gets much worse I have no option but to complete the walk! At least it keeps things simple. It's another fine walking day and I'm making good progress despite my leg and have to admit I'm now looking forward to the finish, my timing is working out just perfect too, if I get as many miles in as possible before my final PW camp tonight I can reduce my last days walking to sub-ten miles which will hopefully allow me to get home by public transport avoiding the need for another overnight's camp. This is a beautiful lonely section with vast empty miles and gentle rolling hills in all directions. The only people I met on the crossing were a couple of Pennine Wayfarers (who offerred and shared a dram with me), wonderful lads wild-camping just north of Windy Gyle the only living souls seen before reaching the outskirts of Kirk Yetholm. I kept walking till 8.30pm by which time I had passed north of the King's Seat cairn and pitched in the heather - hard to pitch in good to sleep on - beneath the west facing slope of Cairn Hill the outlier of mighty Cheviot. Bedded down a happy man, I will be completing The Pennine Way tomorrow!

HADRIAN'S WALL TO PADDON HILL

Tuesday 18th. May 2010. PHOTO: Hot Bank Farm at Crag Lough.
Another incredible bright and hey-hi-ho summer's morning sees me leaving my seventh camp on The Pennine Way along Hadrian's Wall in goodly spirits having slept soundly following a long 32 mile day yesterday. I have six or seven miles to go along that constant up-and-down section of the Wall which is mildly disconcerting as steady striding is constantly interrupted - how much harder on the men who built the wall I wonder? On arriving at Rapishaw Gap just this side of Housesteads Fort the only person met along the Wall was a solitary local dog-walker out enjoying this bright new day, we dallied for a chat near the summit trig point on the highest point on the Wall - Winshiels Crag at 1132' above sea level. It was a great treat to see several Whinchats hereabouts. The early morning light is so good I took quite a few pictures despite having covered this section phtographically on my double-traverse of the Wall a couple of years ago. A quickish march brings me to Rapishaw Gap where the Wall is left in favour of the lowland moors leading into the eastern extremity of the formidable man-planted woodlands of Wark Forest. I had an unusual encounter on an open path in a warm sunny clearing through the woods, stepping over an Adder asleep on the track. It was so still I thought it was dead and gently tapped it with my foot, a procedure that failed to meet with complete viperous approval! Off it went at a rare lick, instantly disappearing in the long grass, my closest encounter yet with an Adder but I should have got a picture before standing on the poor thing. On leaving the forest- at least the going has been quite fast on the trails - I dropped down to cross first the Wark Burns then Hauxty Burn and on into the town of Bellingham. My first port of call in Bellingham (pronounced BellingJAM), was to the local chemist, I have hurt the bottom part of the shin in my right leg, I think I have been tying my boot lace too tight, and although I have loosed off the lace, the pain is increasing, I bought some "ice" gel. Then it was into the bakers shop next door, Yummy, down the lane to a public tap - every town should have at least one of these for wayfarers who are always on the look-out for water and then off steeply up the road for a mile or so to regain the high ground above the valley. A few easy miles and I'm reaching my evening knackered stage and begin to keep an eye out for a place to pitch up for the night and in due course after passing Hareshaw House and crossing the minor road then traversing over Rough Shaw I found my spot by the next minor road about a mile below the summit of Paddon Hill. Another good day and I have walked at least 60 miles in the last 48 hours and I'm beginning to think that I might actually finish the walk! It's a fact that less than half of all starting walkers make it from Edale to Kirk Yetholme and that has been on my mind, not only that but the Pennine Way is about 70 miles longer than my previous record distance for a continuous walk, so it represents quite an increase on what I know I can do! Slept very well, as might be imagined>

GARRIGILL TO HADRIANS' WALL

Monday 17th. May 2010. PHOTO: Hadrian's Wall.
I'm up and away about 7am. having settled into a sleeping routine that allows me to get up and off quite early, my intention is to arrive in Garrigill just as the shops open. I walked quickly on the downhill path and got into the village about 8.30am and by happy co-incidence met the post-office owner while I was dumping yesterdays litter in a bin, asked when the shops opened and he said not till nine "but I'll open up for you if you want" such is the power of private enterprise! Thank you kind sir.. From Garrigill it's an enjoyable five miles walk to Alston along the banks of the South Tyne and I arrived in Alston mid-morning. I detoured into the town to stock up on food etc., which added about 45 minutes to my time then it was back downhill to follow the South Tyne river just a little west of north, through the unromantically named old mining village of Slaggyford onto the abandoned bed of the South Tynsdale Railway and on to the village of Greenhead some 18 miles north of Alston. I arrived after a slightly confusing crossing of the golf-course immediately north of the A69 and made for the pub and had my first beer for over a week! I needed to beg water and with the pub very full I felt compelled to buy a pint! I have a reason to celebrate too as I get here exactly a week after leaving Edale and the official tally of miles is 199, so with my several tours I drink my beer toasting having walked over 200 miles in a week. I'm sure that will be a new one week distance record for me. Then it was off passing the track to Thirlwall Castle and then with a bit of a pull too, it's always the same tiring drag with hills encoutered at the fag-end of the day.. up along Cockmount Hill with a dramtic change of direction from north to east as the next section of the Way crosses wonderful Hadrian's Wall to Housesteads. Soon I'm at the car-park at Cawfields and have the wall all to myself in the warm evening light spilling in from a setting sun in the west making for good photograhy. Time to find somewhere to camp but as there are farms around and conscious of how unwelcome wild camping is in these parts - fears are that tentpoles and pegs may cause damage to as yet undiscovered archeology, something I am happy to recognise - so I elect to have my first proper night out under the stars this year and kip in my bivi-sac. righ by the wall and I'm in a small way sorry to say that I was not in the least worried by the ghosts of the Roman Legionairs. A great night and in a great spot too, as can be seen in my picture.

HIGH FORCE TO GARRIGILL

Sunday 16th.May 2010. PHOTO: Greg's Hut.
Leaving "Juniper Camp" I have by my caluclations now completed 146 miles of the walk. The next dozen or so miles I know quite well and expect to make fast progress to Dufton and so it turns out. Once I have passed and photographed High Force (again), it's a short climb up Cronkley Hill and down to cross the Maize Beck and on to the waterfall of Cauldron Snout and the dam wall at Cow Green Reservoir. Reaching the dam wall involves several miles of wonderful sprung-turf walking by the riverside passing the whitewashed farmsteads of the Raby Estate. But alas the Way abandons this five star terrain for a couple of miles of boulder-hopping to reach the bottom of Cauldron Snout's waterfall, the difference in going is sudden, dramatic and the turf is soon missed! At the top of the Snout I met and chatted to a man from Australia who was also walking the Way but was making for Langdon Green to meet up and then walk with his friends, all fellow Australians. Most of the walkers doing the Way seem to be from overseas so the Way is contributing to our foreign exchange reserves, or at least the walkers I am meeting are. The next notable landmark is the wonderful Whin Sill glaciated valley at High Cup Nick, I had my photo taken here I'm meeting more folks on the Way than on any earlier day! Down into Dufton and a bit of a blow to learn that the shop in the town is no longer open! dratt.. I went into the pub preparing to have to fork out extortionately for sandwiches etc but had great good luck to meet a fellow (lady) walker, who on learning of my predicament gave me her surplus food, thank you ma'am! Next on the walk is a big pull up onto the ridge leading to The Dun Fells with the Radar Station atop, on the climb up I even managed to get some snow on my boots! Making my way to Cross Fell was hard going a) I was tiring by this time in the early evening and b) a stiff and very cold wind did nothing to help. But I was making good distance and soon found myself dropping down to Gregs Hut the old mining cottage now serving in the office of a bothy. No one was resident, I had a quick look at the log-book and was gratified to see that my immediate predecessor (walking the Way and signing the book) started his entry "Day 12 on the Pennine Way", I was tempted to start mine with "Day six on the Pennine Way- so there!" but modesty forbade me! I considered spending the night here and it would have been a pleasant doss but the time was just too early, I can easily get another hour or two on my legs and get closer to Garrigill, hard tonight, but I'll be glad on the morrow. It's all downhill but a bit uncomfortable underfoot due to the rather stony track, but I endured and found a wonderful spot to camp about three miles above Garrigill in the small bay of an old quarry near some abandoned mineworkings. A great little spot and the Golden Plovers kept me company and I slept a happy man.

THWAITE TO HIGH FORCE ON THE TEES

Saturday 15th. May 2010. PHOTO: Racock Moor to Baldersdale.
The beautiful weather continues and all of today is blessed with continuous warm sunshine and with good tramping underfoot I pace the miles with relish. Thwaite was still asleep as I walked through, in passing I stopped to photograph the Cherry Kearton Hotel (tea room closed early am. alas), named after the famous naturalist and photographer who lived here before elevation to fame and fortune. Out of Thwaite leads to a pleasant climb over the hill called Kidson then easily downhill to the attractive hamlet of Keld - I last passed through Keld on my walk along Wainwright's Coast to Coast route during the first week of August 2008. The next stage from to Middleton-in-Teesdale is a long one at 22 miles and takes a direct line north over the Stonedale Moor to the famous Tan Hill Inn. I stopped for a cup of tea and found the service appalling; I'll need to be in some extremity to be tempted across their door again. Leaving the pub the good news is that the Sleightholm Moss crossing was a bouncy romp given how dryed out it was and this is possibly the worst reputed bog on the entire Way. Next the busy A66 is crossed at God's Bridge, no need to use the bridge however as the river Greta has almost disappeared underground! Then a gentle climb over Ravock Castle to descend to the reservoirs at Baldersdale and the erstwhile home of Hannah Hauxwell at Birk Hatt Farm - took a picture for my BritLit Flickr group- and uphill to a rest by Hannah's Meadow (the meadow and the farm are now in the possession of the Durham Wildlife Trust). Here in mid afternoon, I took a short break in the sun relishing the fact that I have now walked 134 miles since leaving Edale last Monday evening so I have now accomplished half of the Pennine Way - and I'm just inside the time required for a sub-ten day completion! But the road beckons and so off north once more, I miss the Bowes Loop and will restock on food and water in Middleton about two hours walk away. Arriving about teatime I made for the local fish and chip shop and had a smashing fish-supper alfresco on the pavement tables then after stocking up on essential comestibles made my way along the west bank of the River Tees - From here to Dufton I will be travelling in the opposite direction taken when I last walked this stretch on TheTeesdale Way done in early June 2007. After passing Low Force I'm ready to turn in at the next possible campsite and soon wander off the path to camp in the juniper woods a couple of hundred yards below the High Force waterfalls, quite out of site and a good soft pitch about four miles or so from Middleton-in-teesdale. So get set up in the evening sun, put the kettle on and this is the life for a man like me!

PEN-Y-GHENT TO THWAITE

Friday 14th. May 2010. PHOTO: Peter and Judy Scott.
By 8am I am making my way from my camp the Halton Gill Road sonn passing Churn Milk Hole to climb the steep stepped path of Pen-y-Ghent on another dry and fine morning. However the mist was kissing the trig point on the hill's long summit sitting 2372' above sea-level. On the way up the track passes the gritstone edge of Pen-y-Ghent seen much clearer from Horton-in-Ribblesdale and I lapsed into memories of a rock-climbing visit with Ruth Conway - a scan of my climbing guide shows that the trip was made on 18th. July 1983, our agenda was the Classic Rock route "Red Pencil, I led the direct finish and we also climbed the routes; Damocles Groove, Pagon's Purgatory and Nose Cracks. I recall that it was a very warm day and after our climbs we repaired to trig point to admire the view. Low flying jets screeched overhead so close you could have poked them with a walking pole, gun-powder explosions echoed from the Whernside quarries and below us in Halton Gill sheepdogs barked and the sheep bleated adding to the general cacophony! So much for peace and quiet of the countryside! Down in Horton I stopped at the cafe, signed the book and had an expensive cup of tea and a bacon sandwich. Then back to the walk and quickly passing the reveered Crown Inn and up the route of the Ribble Way along the walled route of Harber Scar Lane and into classic Dales scenery of field vale and limestone walls. It's a fifteen mile section to Hawes and once more I got my head down and my feet in gear completing the distance in under five hours. This allowed me a bit of luxury in rehydrating and also a chance to buy some more food before setting off to make my way along the next secton to Keld. I quickly arrived at Hardraw and started the long climb up Great Shunner Fell when to our mutual delight I met old friends from my climbing days with the Derwent and Oread Mountaineering Clubs in Derbyshire - Peter Scott and Judy Woods, so this part of the Way is becoming a real stroll down memory lane! We sat and had a good blether but I have many miles to go and had to say farewell after an exchange of email addresses etc and continued on the lonely track (today) up to the summit shelter of the fell then down to Thwaite as a lone Golden Plover kleeped me off the hill, now well paved and so another famous Pennine bogfest has had it's teeth drawn. I got a good camp about half-a-mile above the Village the proper ending to another great day on the fell.

WINDY HILL TO ICKORNSHAW

Wednesday 12/05/2010. PHOTO: Stoodley Pike.

After Tuesday night camped by the busy M62 where, I'm pleased to say, neither frost nor traffic noise could penetrate my sleep! I got off bright and early this morning being keen to walk into new territory, the Derbyshire end of the Pennine Way being quite well known to me from the years I lived in the county from 1979-2000. Fairly soon I'm crossing Blackstone Edge with it's trig point atop an impressive rocky mound at 1549' above sea level. Then a rather windswept drop off the high moor to reach an old paved road by the ancient waymarker the Aiggin Stone.
The Way now enters proper reservior country, after crossing the busy A58 close to the White Horse pub, (closed of course) there are several easy miles by the side of Blackstone Edge, then Light Hazzles and finally Warland reservoirs. Lots of nesting Mallards, a few Sandpipers and the odd Wheatear enlivening the scene with the ususal crop of Swallows working the water. Stoodley Pike comes into view and is followed by a steep descent into Calderdale and Hebden Bridge - another water detour, the weather is warm and my high mileage makes constant rehydration essential. My guide now gives a distance of 18 miles to reach Lothersdale which will keep me busy for a bit! And it starts with a steep climb back up to the moorland plateau, I did another minor detour to grab a cup of coffee and a bun or two at Highgate Farm (Alladin's Cave), well worth the effort. More but gentler climbing leads up to famous Top Withans and it's tenuous connection with Wuthering Heights, for a while the Way follows the path of The Bronte Way and after a descent to Pondon Reservior climbs over the summit of Wolf Stones and on to Ickornshaw Moor. After passing the village the Way continues north and I'm on the look out for a camping spot, this is actively farmed countryside but I soon find a nice out of sight hollow, pitch, brew, eat and sleep. Some 60 miles completed now.

Thursday 13/05/2010. ICKORNSHAW TO PEN-Y-GHENT. (Due to an editorial error (hmmm) today 's report will be included in this post with Wednesdays!
After an early and frosty start to my day I set off in the now customary bright sunlight and
the first place of interest reached was the pretty village of Lothersdale and from there it is a fifteen mile stretch to Malham and the limestone country of the Yorkshire Dales National Park, a good target. All good easy walking with a brief spell along the Leeds and Liverpool canal taking in the interesting double stacked bridge near East Marton. Then on to pretty Gargrave where the Co-op supplied food and drink and an meat pie emporium opposite sourced my water needs as well as an excellent jellied pie (should have bought two). Had a bit of bother getting off-route on the last mile to Gargrave which caused me to head too far east, don't think it added much in the way of distance but had me road-walking for a bit longer than necessary. After Gargrave it was on to Malham in beautiful sunshine, I really have got it good with the weather and in Malham I stop for a drink of ornange and soda at the Buck Inn my preferred pub in the village. At the Cove I had a chat with a couple of RSPB lads who pointed out where a Peregrine was sitting on it's nest, unfortunately not showing in the little time I could spare for birdwatching - I got a good shot of an Oyster-catcher chick on the river Ayre on the approach to Malham though - then up the steep steps to the limestone pavement and away from the crowds and on to deserted Malham Tarn passing the field centre ( with it's literary associations with Charles Kingsley). I left Malham at 3.30pm and about four hours later had climbed and crossed Fountains Fell making a tiring ascent at the end of a long days walk, down the other side and down to the minor road above Stainforth just to the east of Pen-y-Ghent where I camped for the night midway between two farms close to the road but with the protection of a good wall. It has been a long days walking and I'm too tired at 8pm to tackke the ascent of Pen-y-Ghent and though this was a chancy sort of place for a wild camp in Yorkshire, I was up and away early in the morning with problems.

ASHOP HEAD TO WINDY HILL

Tuesday 11th. May 2010. PHOTO: Erosion Control on Kinder Scout.
With my evening start yesterday, I only managed a couple hours or so of walking up Jacob's Ladder over Kinder Scout and camped on the col above the Ashop Head to Snake Pass track, it was snowing when pitching! The morning was crisp clear and compelling and I'm mustard-keen to get some dirt on my boots and miles on my legs and boy there is nothing to impede. It's thirty or so years since I first tramped these hills and moors and over that time there has been a lot of work aimed at reducing the erosion caused by boots and now the authorities are engaged in a long on-going campaign to lay old paving slabs across the worst of the moors bogs and what a difference it makes. The ground is very dry and this is encouraging, I have had this walk in mind for over 25 years but the thought of the bogs (and of course Wainwright's moaning about them) has provided a rich source of excuse material. Too late now and with the exceptional dry weather in April I have got the conditions right for a fast traverse my target is to complete around the ten day mark. I will be wild camping throughout. Today's walking will take me over familiar terrain and after crossing the Snake Pass onto the once feared Featherbed Moss followed by a descent to Crowden and it's reservoir. Here I detoured to find water adding a good half hour's walking, water, water everywhere but so hard to get a drop to drink! but still, the sun shines. The next leg from Crowden to Standedge is 12 miles in length passing Laddow Rocks where I remember ticking off some rock-climbs thirty years ago, and a pair of Peregrines and some Ravens are nesting today. Black Hill comes next and fast too all that flag-laying has tamed the bog, time was that the Black Hill trig point was an island protected by a deep and potentially lethal moat of noxious liquified peat, horses were rumoured to have disappered in it's murky deep! At Standage I made my first route finding error where the Way leaves a tarmac lane on a sign simply marked "public footpath" whereas the lane it leaves continues signed with a white acorn marker for the Pennine Way Bridlepath, taking that I wasted half an hour or more before being rescued by a knowing local who observed "everyone makes that mistake" Indeed I was later to meet a fellow Pennine Wayfarer who had done exactly the same (but with a much more serious consequence unfortunately). Keen to get the miles in I carry on walking till 8.15pm and camp on a pitch just above the M62 north of Windy Hill, by which time my distance walked was about the thirty mile mark. Even if the faint rumble from the M62 had been as loud as thunder, my sleep would be quite undisturbed!

THE PENNINE WAY EDALE START

Monday 10th. May 2010. PHOTO: The Old Nag's Head - Edale.
Joy drove me over to Keswick last weekend and I am bound for the Pennine Way while Joy will be enjoying a few days in the lodge. I travelled by bus to Manchester but finished the journey to Edale by train from Manchester Piccadilly station. I purchased my ticket and ran out to the platform only to see the train draw away, a minute earlier, or if the train had been a minute late and I would have been on board and not obliged to hang around for another hour and thirty five minutes.... Still I got to Edale about six pm walked up to the official start opposite the Old Nags Head pub and started off on my journey of 268 miles at exactly 6.10pm. The weather forecast is good and the start was dry and sunny and these conditions prevailed throughout the walk although tonight and the following two saw sub-zero temperatures overnight, but as this too was forecast I have come prepared. My daily posts on the walk will not be expansive as a full record has been logged on my "summonedbyfells" page on flickr.