ON COCKLE SHELL ISLAND

Tuesday 06/04/2010. Well here we are with Easter not only upon us but over now. We had planned to go to Keswick for the holiday but the weather forecast for Cumbria for the holiday weekend was dire, so we decided to stay at home. In the event the weather turned out slightly less awful than forecast for The Lakes but there was still an awfull lot of rain so I think we made the right decision. A pleasing consequence was that I was able to attend the RSPB Saltholme work-party scheduled for today and tomorrow. The main objective is to shore up the shuttering that surrounds the island in Back Saltholme Pool, this is a much used nesting site for Canada Geese, Common Terns and Roseate Terns. The effect of the constant wind driven wave power is to undermine the shuttering - itself necesary to keep the island from being washed level - this causes erosion of the land and the essential cockle-shell surface so suited to our birds. Our tasks involved the transportation of rubble to the spit of land closest to the island from where it was manually loaded into tote boxes which in turn were loaded onto the reserve boat and then the payload was taken across to the island where repairs were carried out. This was all good work there is no doubt that you are engaged in something valuable for the birdlife, we set up some experimental nesting boxes especially for the Roseate Terns . By the side of the shuttering we had a Canada Goose nest with seven white eggs. We covered that up with a woolen jacket while working there, the parents kept close by but despite their natural concern no harm done. I stayed from 9.30am till 3.15pm and returned home by bus. On Wednesday I returned to continue working on the island, but for the morning only. Another Canada Goose has set up home and had a single egg by the shuttering exactly where we land and offload the materials for the repairs. But you gotta love 'em don't you? On Wednesday we finished the job on this island but we still have similar work to do on the others.

END OF THE WEST HIGHLAND WAY

Sunday 21/03/2010. After my long wait at Buchanan Bus Station in Glasgow the two hour journey on the National Express Glasgow to Paddington run went past quite fast, the coach was pretty full with most seats taken. I got out at Carlisle just before midnight, it was literally freezing and a low fog lay over the town, not a very welcome prospect. I had a look at the possibility of camping by the river Eden in Bitts Park, but decided against that as it is Saturday night and lots of young folks are around some the worse for wear and I fear I would attract attention. Not too sure about what to do I decided to walk round town and watch the weekend revellers as they make their way home or to the next open boozer. For an old codger like me this is a different world which is permanently hidden from those who go to bed in the same day they got out of it. The amazing thing is how few clothes are worn, especially by the girls who are uniformly semi-naked, hugging themselves in a doomed attempt to keep the cold at bay. The other thing to catch my attention was all the town centre chip and pizza shops are open and doing a roaring trade, they looked as if they were making lots of money and good luck to them, it's not coming easy.

Eventually I went to the bus station, where a coloured gentleman was shouting into his phone about how unfair it was. Apparently he had to change buses in Carlisle with a three hour wait in the early hours of the morning and made the mistake of thinking that he could comfortably pass away the time "inside the station" Alas Carlisle bus station, is not so much a bus station as a stopping place with no indoor facility whatsoever, and this poor traveller was stuck out in the cold for the duration, still if he wandered up Lowther Street towards the railway station he could at least get a cup of coffee and a bag of chips in one of the late night eateries. I thought about spending the night in the waiting room at the railway station, but the station is locked up overnight so Carlisle is not too acommodating to the low budget traveller arriving in the wee small hours. Fortunatley there was a nice quiet shop alleyway just off the bus station concourse and I bedded down there for the night, didn't get the best sleep of my trip but it was comfortable enough, dry and I was undisturbed. As can be seen in my picture, urban-camping is the latest thing. In the morning I got the first bus to Newcastle-upon-Tyne about nine thirty and then on to Middlesbrough, no Ingleby buses on a Sunday so from Middlesbrough to Thornaby with a 25 minute walk to finish the journey off. I arrived home about 3pm.

FINISHING THE WEST HIGHLAND WAY

Saturday 20/03/2010. After a good night's sleep by the ruins of the Larigmor Cottage I awoke quite early determined to get to the end of the walk in Fort William as soon as possible, from there I have a long journey back home so an early departure is in order and I was up and walking by 7am. It took about three hours to reach the outskirts of Fort William and descending Glen Nevis was a pleasant downhill trod but unfortunately the low cloud denied me much of a view of the Ben and surrounding hills, but never mind I was making good time and in good form. Not long after leaving Larigmor, the nature of the walking changes as the mountains are forsaken and the route winds it's way into the forest on the approach to Glen Nevis, there was some rather unwelcome uphill work as well but not too taxing. The last couple of miles were along the pavement leading to the round-a-bout at the entrance to Fort William, this has been the traditional finish to the West Highland Way, but an extension has been agreed to take the walk into the center of the town, this seems sensible as surely every walker will of necessity be going into Fort William anyway. Unlike the start of the walk 98 miles away in Milngavie, there is no structure or marker to show precisely where the "new" end is. Never mind, it has been dry for these final ten or so miles and now that the walking is over the sun has decided to come out. I found a toilet and had a good wash and a shave then something to eat. An earlier visit to the Tourist Information Centre has established that the best way to Glasgow was by a coach leaving at 2.15pm. Thus I had about two hours to enjoy in town and in the sun this was relaxing and just fine. My feet were in good order despite my new expensive boots having been wet through for about three days, I have no blisters but intermittent soreness comes and goes, I think it is the osteo-arthritis I am now getting in my big toes - especially the right one- kicking in. Never mind I haven't done too bad for an old man, my walking time being under three and a half days end to end. The coach to Glasgow was a delight going down Glencoe and across Rannoch Moor and on to Loch Lomond, in a reversal of my route north and quite a lot of the walk could be seen, particularly on Loch Lomond, from the bus. I arrived in Glasgow at 5.30pm and had to wait it out till 10.30pm before I could get a bus to Carlisle. My trusty bus pass is no help in Scotland, alas and my expenditures on fares to and from Carlisle amounted to £40.00. quite a lot but worth the cost for the walk. I should like to do more long walks in Scotland but the cost is a depressing factor. Hey-ho. (My picture shows the ruins of the cottages known as Tigh na Sleubhaich, my camp site lay half-a-mile further down the valley, just before the point where northern toe of Beinn na Caillich reaches the floor of the glen).

ACROSS RANNOCH MOOR WEST HIGHLAND WAY

Friday 19/03/2010. Long days make for a good night's sleep so notwithstanding my position close to the railway at Bridge of Orchy, the trains run unexpectedly late, with the lights of the station burning away all night, I slept soundly through the wind and rain, I was lucky to be able to pitch in a brief rainless spell and my good fortune returned in the morning and I was able to pack up in the dry - the tent went into it's bag very wet, adding to the weight to be humped around.
Not long after packing up the rain came back and stayed with me at varying degrees of ferocity for the rest of the day, this was a shame as it restricted my photography in what is surely among the most beautiful miles of the route. Once clear of Bridge of Orchy (good camping by the bridge with pub to hand too) the route climbs and winds steeply uphill corkscrewing it's way over the northern slopes of Mam Carrsigh to descend with Loch Tulla to the north-east to reach Inveroran and it's hotel, early to mid-morning as I passed and no sign of life, from here a walk round the quiet road to Forest Lodge and the wonderful military road over Rannoch Moor with all those wonderful Munro's off on my left hand side (north-west) guarding Glencoe and forcing the traveller down to cross the A82 at it's access to the ski runs on Meall a' Bhuiridh and on to the pleasures of Kingshouse Hotel. It was pouring down as I arrived at the hostelry, the climbers bar was closed so I had to brave the rigours of the lounge bar to get my first cup of decent coffee for ages. As I left the local mountain rescue team out training their dogs and handlers were pouring into the hotel in search of a respite from the weather. None for me though, so after about a mile or so along the minor road behind the hotel I struck uphill once more to reach the access of The Devil's Staircase, opposite the Majesty that is Buachaille Etive Mor, with the bewitching positioned and whitewashed Scottish Mountaineering Club hut "Lagangarbh" at it's base. It is over 30 years since I first stayed in this legendary climbing hut. It's about six miles over to Kinlochleven and a bit of a pain on the final couple of downhill miles as my downhill muscles are underused on this walk and prone to complain when pressed to service. But I made it OK, only to start on my final climb of the day (and of the walk virtually too) along the southern bank of the Mamore's, once the initial climb was over the going got much faster and I churned up the miles to make as much ground as possible before darkness arrived, not only that but camping spots were rather scarce so I had reason to march. But in due course I came to the flatter ground as I headed west and camped in a lovely spot by the ruins of Larigmor Cottage, (see picture) with about ten miles to complete in the morning. Late afternoon and the rain gave up it near 48 hour barrage and I camped a happy man and slept the sleep of the just. Tomorrow I'll be in Fort William.

GLEN FALLOCH TO BRIDGE OF ORCHY ON THE WEST HIGHLAND WAY

Thursday 18/03/2010. Again I am up and away by 7.30am and delighted to find the day calm and dry, though this was alas but an early respite from two continuous days of high wind and heavy rain, but at least I had the benefit of ignorance when I set off. The Inveranrnan to Tyndrum leg of the way gets the walker away from the shores of the Loch and sets the mood for the hills that lie ahead. The outstanding weather feature of today was the constant rain, which came on after my aforementioned dry start, about 10am and persisted all day. It was quite kind to me at my camp spot opposite the Bridge of Orchy rail station, as it obliged by drying up while I struggled with the gales to get my tent up, but I hate having to do that in the rain so all was forgiven. I passed the Inveranran Inn, or at least I passed the ferry signal point which would have got a boat over to take me across the loch to the Inn (£3.00 each way, minimum charge £6.00). Sadly I resisted, on cost grounds and of course I don't drink alcohol while out walking, but even so I felt the tugging strings of nostalgia thinking back to the many times I stopped there to savour a pint on my way south, and to admire the bonnie braw kilted lads, fine highland specimens that served behind the bar, but that was 30 years ago! Really good walking up along Glen Falloch passing Crianlarich then thorough the woods to descend to pass the graveyard at the ruins of St. Fillans Priory and on to Tyndrum. Stopped at the little general grocer I last visited during my Munro campaigning and then off uphill into the blast of rain and the welt of wind pas the beautifully sloped Beinn Dorain (summit invisible in the clouds) and on to Bridge of Orchy where I pitched in the dark about 7pm., just opposite the railway station. Not a recommended wild-camp spot but the first piece of flat ground in several miles and the boy was tired, another 27 miles logged in the course of the day. Well done Freddie.

THE HIGH ROAD - WEST HIGHLAND WAY

Wednesday 17/03/2010. A bit of a wild night but I was up and away from my camp at 7.30am. for the walk downhill with Dumgoyach Hill up on my right hand side. It's a grand dry morning and I'm keen to get some miles eaten up so step out lively and the terrain is very accommodating nice and flat and I am pleased to see that three miles per hour is quite a comfortable pace, which is a lot faster than I have been able to maintain on my winter walks on the North Yorks Moors. The highlights of the morning were seeing a fallow deer cross the track in front of me then at almost the same time watching a pair of Buzzards scouting out a rookery and being seen off individually, strangely, only two defenders present but by tackling a predator apiece they saved their progeny (this time). Todays walk takes me onto Lochlomonside for the twenty mile or so stretch over the lovely Conich Hill to Balmaha and on to Rowardennan to Inverarnan, Inversnaid, Doune Bothy and Tyndrum. I walked a total of 27 miles during the course of the day and camped on the shores of Loch Lomond with the Ben towering over all. Ben Lomond was the first Highland Hill I ever climbed, I would be about 14 and on a school outing, one of those early taster sessions that so gripped me that I am held fast still. During my working career as a sales Rep for Elbeo Ltd., in the early 1970's I had a regular three weekly trip up to Inverness from my home in Hurlford near Kilmarnock in Ayrshire. After completing business calls in Inverness I would return to home down the Great Glen to Fort William and then through Glencoe to Glasgow and so to Hurlford. I must have travelled on the mian-road side of Loch Lomond dozens of times but this is the first time I have made a journey along the "Ben" side of the Loch, and on foot it is a better way to travel. 31 miles completed by the time I got to my campsite in the picture, a beautiful place to spend a night, quiet, alone and all my world wrapped in the still goodness of a gentle night.

NORTHWARD BOUND - WEST HIGHLAND WAY

Tuesday 16/03/2010. When we planned our trip to Keswick for the Theatre by the Lake Literature Festival, I had it in mind to stay on in the Lakes for another week or so to continue my campaign on The Birketts (The hills in Lakeland exceeding 1,000' recorded in Bill Birkett's "Complete Lakeland Fells"). But I must admit that when push came to shove I rather fancied a longer walk than the short bitty days that Birketts would now involve. I have about 30 routes to do to complete my round and would dearly like to knock them all off in 2010, but Keswick is not now the best base. For obvious reasons the routes still to be climbed and walked are all farthest away from Keswick and so will mostly require an overnight camp to complete, given my dependence on public transport. So as I fancy getting some longer miles on my legs I decided to come back with Joy and then set off for Bonnie Scotland and have a go at the West Highland Way, at 98 miles it is only two miles short of my favourite walk distance!
I set off from home on the 8.45am bus to Stockton and arrived at Milngavie just before 7pm. Fortunate for the fact that Milngavie celebrates it's relationship with the West Highland Way making finding the start a doddle, even in the dark. I walked for about an hour and a half before pitching my tent behind a wall close to the site of the pre-historic stone circle beneath Dumgoyach Hill about four miles out of Milngavie.

My picture is of Queen Victoria's statue in Bitts Park, Carlisle. I had a bit of time to kill and washed up here to have a look at the old lady and explore the connection with Jacob Polley's novel "Talk Of The Town" I won't go into details here, but my Flickr page reveals all...